Taming the dragon on Hong Kong Island

Article updated on May 12, 2024
Text & Photographs: Claire Lessiau & Marcella van Alphen

Hong Kong is famous for its skyscrapers and modernity. What is less known is that only 7% of the territory is built. Only a few subway stops away from the most densely populated area on the planet (with up to 130,000 inhabitants per square kilometres!), fantastic outdoors are easily accessible. Pushing further than Victoria Peak, follow us on the Dragon’s Back that has been voted world’s best urban hike.

It is true that Dragon’s Back has everything to please most hikers. The trail start is easily accessible by public transport from the heart of the city, it offers stunning sea and mountain views from a jagged ridge line, it is a relatively easy and short hike and therefore accessible to most people even without being super fit, it offers shady jungle passages, it is safe and offers a beautiful arrival on a quiet beach! Another great advantage is that you can hike it at your own pace at your own time as it is very easy to self-guide. The hike is well marked and easy to follow so you cannot really get lost there. So no need to take a guide, just fill up your water bottle, grab a snack, a good suntan lotion, put on a cap, take some hiking poles if you wish and tame the dragon!

  • Dragon’s Back is located on Hong Kong Island.
  • Take the MTR to Shau Kei Wan Station on the Island Line.
  • Once in Shau Kei Wan Station, follow and take Exit A3.
  • At the surface, take Bus No. 9 toward Shek O at the Shau Kei Wan Bus Terminus. You can use your Octopus card for this!
  • Get off at “To Tei Wan, Dragon’s Back” (11th stop).
  • Once off the bus, the path is well marked.
  • For your return hop on the red minibus to Shau Kei Wan.

The best way to enjoy the Dragon’s Back hike is by following the “long” 8.5-km option as described on the map below taking you straight to Big Wave Bay (you can download this GPS track). The first part will take you uphill from where you will follow the spine of the mountain with great vistas on both sides.

Once in Tai Long Wan, the settlement by the beach, be aware that there are not many food options. Shek O Village and Beach have a better offering. However, you can find food, drinks and ice creams.

Once you have enjoyed the Big Wave beach, the name does do justice, walk up to the parking lot where red minibuses wait for passengers before they depart back to the MTR Shau Kei Wan station. Only cash is accepted on these buses so make sure you carry some small change. From the MTR station it is just a small ride back into the bustling city.

This hike is a very popular one with locals and Big Wave beach is a surfers’ favourite so try to avoid weekends.. Week days are a bit quieter and you will enjoy the whole experience better.

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