Text: Claire Lessiau
Photographs : Claire Lessiau
“Profound emotions, impressive nature experiences and transformative moments of self-discovery at breath-taking locations”. For once, a marketing pitch that is not overpromising! The breath-taking part of it is even understated, I tell myself as I am contemplating the High Fens, Europe’s oldest high moor – a glimpse into prehistoric times, a staggering 10,000 years ago – from the highest point in the Benelux (Belgium, the Netherlands and Luxembourg) along the Stoneman Arduenna mountain biking trail, completely out of breath! I will grant the fact that 700 meters of elevation do not sound like a mountain biking exploit – even though the very last vertical 6 meters were gained on a narrow staircase on top of the mountain’s highest point on which carrying my mountain bike was definitely challenging. However, the 176 kilometres (110 miles) mountain biking on rugged terrain, mostly on unpaved trails, conquering 3,900 meters (12,800ft) of cumulative elevation make the Stoneman Arduenna a monumental race!
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In the already male-dominated mountain biking world, the name “Stoneman” initially struck me as somewhat gender-biased, until my German-speaking counterpart explained that it derives from “cairns”, and I started turning a few more stones… After pedalling the professional mountain biking circuit for years, the Italian athlete Roland Stauders realized he had hardly noticed the beautiful sceneries he cycled through as he was only focused on performing. With this in mind, he developed the Stoneman concept; a series of circuits designed for mountain bikers, and sometimes also hikers and trail runners, urging participants to embrace both the physical challenge and the awe-inspiring surroundings. From Italy to Austria, Germany to Switzerland, and now Belgium, these circuits offer a profound journey of pushing your limits, weaving your way through history and nature.
What sets the Stoneman Arduenna apart from any other mountain biking race is that there is no event per say; it is a personal journey that can be embarked upon at any time between mid-April and mid-September, allowing participants to choose their own pace from a one-day sprint to a two-day adventure or a three-day immersion to compete for a gold, silver or bronze trophy.
Given Roland’s thought process in conceiving the Stoneman, we felt that aiming for bronze in three days struck a balance between pushing our limits and fully absorbing the charm of the region, the enchanting forests, infinite landscapes, and art de vivre of this Belgian province bordering France, Germany, and Luxembourg.
Staying at a relatively low average elevation, the trail winds through pine forests and quaint villages, their slate-covered houses evoking a timeless ambiance. Beech-tree-lined alleys and forest paths guide us through the Wolfsbusch forest massif of beech and fir trees, where unexpected rock formations bear witness to tales of dwarves bartering millstones with locals for sustenance, as the “Kuckerell” legend recounts.
A technical single track, lit by sunbeam piercing through the dense canopy, leads out of the forest onto another uphill during which the chirping of birds is covered by my breathing. Easily navigating the well-marked trail, punctuated by eight checkpoint boards bringing us joy every time we reach one, the focus is purely on enjoying the route made of a few roads, some hiking paths, the best of existing mountain biking trails, and specially-cut single tracks.
Overall quiet with hardly any other bikers nor hikers, the path traverses several lively villages, such as Malmedy, a picturesque and historic Belgian town that captures the essence of the Ardennes. Malmedy also holds a special place in history, having witnessed intense fighting during the Battle of the Bulge in December 1944, and the massacres of 84 American Prisoners of War, one of the most infamous incidents of war crimes during World War II.
The valleys that appear gentle become heart-pounding ascents on dirt tracks, and the exhilarating descents demand razor-sharp focus on the single tracks that wind their way down the hillsides.
The 9th century castle of Reuland, a fortress protecting the area from the 10th century Normand and Hungarian raiders, is a good excuse for a stop and to refill our Stoneman bidons.
Crossing rivers and trailing streams through nature reserves, the forest’s scents refresh both body and mind. Luckily, a tough uphill is interrupted by the view of the mesmerizing 14th century Reinhardstein Castle, saved from the ruins in the early 20th century by Count Jacques de Liedekerke, a Belgian industrialist.
At its southernmost point, the Stoneman Arduenna route blurs borders as the trails seamlessly crosses from Germany to Luxembourg before looping back to Belgium; adventure knows no boundaries, especially in a region where villages changed flags around the Second World War.
After three days of intense biking, seated at the dining table of the restaurant of the Relax Hotel Pip Margraff in Sankt Vith, our eyes lay on our bronze trophies with content and exhaustion. The waiter approaches with nicely-plated beef cheeks with cherries and homemade mashed potatoes. We savour the local gastronomy, an intriguing fusion of French influences (mostly in the names of dishes) and hearty German fare, watered by locally brewed beers – a definite must in Belgium. Already looking forward to a sauna session before passing out in a comfortable bed, with the satisfaction of having conquered the Stoneman Arduenna, I am wondering where my dreams will take me, either back on this trail, or maybe picturing one of the other Stoneman challenges somewhere in the Alps…
Travel tips:
- For all the details, refer to the Stoneman Arduenna.
- May and July provide about 15 hours of daylight and are the best months for the gold pretenders to ride, as it is allowed only during daylight hours.
- The luggage forwarding service from accommodation to accommodation is excellent and eases logistics, allowing contenders to carry only a light backpack with packed lunches, a few spare parts and a bike pump at minima.
- A wide range of biker-friendly accommodations from campgrounds to 4-star hotels with saunas and spas, is available along the Stoneman Arduenna for every type of rider.
- Check out this interactive map for the specific details to help you plan your trip and more articles and photos (zoom out) about the area (short tutorial)!
For more mountain biking & adventure highlights, click on the images below:
Best regards from far, 