Article updated on December 26, 2024
Text: Claire Lessiau
Photographs: Claire Lessiau & Marcella van Alphen

Phnom Penh, the vibrant capital of Cambodia, is a city where the scars of its history coexist with the hopes of its future. With just 48 hours to explore, embrace both the light and dark sides of this dynamic metropolis where you will experience a whirlwind of emotions, from the heart-wrenching memories of the Khmer Rouge to the bustling energy of modern Cambodia. From scooters zipping through chaotic traffic to tranquil boat rides on the Mekong River, Phnom Penh offers a striking juxtaposition of old and new, joy and sorrow. Here is how to make the most of your two days in this bustling city.

Day 1: A Day of Reflection and Discovery

Start with Adventure: Rent a Scooter

For the more adventurous traveler and experienced two-wheeler, renting a scooter is the ultimate way to navigate Phnom Penh’s energetic streets. It is a great alternative to the ever-present tuk-tuks and gives you the freedom to explore at your own pace. But be warned: the traffic is always hectic, and can be overwhelming, so hang on tight!

For less adventurous travelers, tuk-tuks are a fun and safer option. With a skilled local driver at the helm, these iconic, three-wheeled vehicles are efficiently maneuvered through traffic.

S-21 [the Tuol Sleng Genocidal Museum]

No visit to Phnom Penh is complete without confronting its painful history at the S-21 prison, now the Tuol Sleng Genocidal Museum. Once a high school, this site became one of the Khmer Rouge’s most notorious detention centers where some of the most horrendous exactions of the regime took place. The harrowing exhibitions here will leave you stunned and reflective, as you walk through classrooms turned into torture chambers, and view photographs of the victims, many of whom never left the school grounds.

Allocate half a day for this visit to truly absorb the gravity of Cambodia’s darkest years and try to process such inhumanity.

The National Museum of Cambodia: Art and Light After Darkness

After immersing yourself in the somber realities of the past, head to the National Museum of Cambodia to uplift your spirits. Located just a short distance from the museum, this architectural landmark houses an extraordinary collection of Khmer art spanning centuries and paying tribute to one of world’s great empires. From ancient sculptures to intricate carvings, the museum provides a peaceful contrast to the earlier visit, offering a glimpse into Cambodia’s rich cultural heritage.

Mekong River Cruise: Sundowners and City Views

Leaving the museum, stroll the bank of the Mekong and take in the atmosphere of the vibrant and ultra-dynamic capital.

In the late afternoon, unwind with a sunset cruise along the Mekong River. The Kanika Boat is the safest and most reliable option for a serene ride, offering unparalleled views of Phnom Penh’s skyline with sundowners.

As the sun dips behind the city, sparkling skyscrapers lit up while fishermen living on their long-tail boats or stilted shacks fall into the darkness of dusk. Phnom Penh is a city of contrasts…

Day 2: Reflecting on Tragedy, Embracing Hope

The killing fields: A Sobering Journey

The day begins with a short drive from the Tuol Sleng Museum to the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek. It is along this road that thousands of victims of Pol Pot were taken before being executed by the Khmer Rouge. The chilling silence here is broken only by the dark whispers of history. The audio guide, which we highly recommend, provides a deeply personal account of the atrocities that unfolded on this ground. It is a heart-wrenching experience, but essential for understanding the depths of Cambodia’s resilience.

Allocate half a day for this visit, reflecting on the horror and the healing that continues to shape the nation.

Vann Nath Art Gallery: The Voice of Survival Through Art

After visiting the Killing Fields, make your way to the Vann Nath Art Gallery, dedicated to the work of one of the few survivors of the Khmer Rouge regime, and one of only seven known adult survivors of S-21. Vann Nath (1946–2011), a painter, was imprisoned and tortured at S-21 but was spared due to his artistic talents that the prison chief appreciated. He dedicated the rest of his life to testifying through his art.

In his Vann Nath Gallery, you will see powerful paintings that depict the atrocities he witnessed, as well as photos of him traveling the world as an ambassador for peace. A visit here offers an opportunity to honor the resilience of those who survived and a chance to reflect on the healing power of arts.

Allocate half an hour for touring the gallery.

The Royal Palace: A Glimpse of Cambodia’s Majesty

End your two days in Phnom Penh with a visit to the Royal Palace. While it may not rival the scale nor grandeur of Bangkok’s Royal Palace, it stands as a remarkable symbol of Cambodia’s royal heritage. Admire the elaborate architecture, peaceful gardens, and majestic atmosphere of this historic site, which continues to serve as the residence of the King of Cambodia.

Travel tips:

• All relevant information to visit these landmarks can be found in the corresponding articles.
• This article is now featured on https://www.gpsmycity.com. To download this article for offline reading or travel directions to the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in (Phnom Penh) on GPSmyCity. 
• Check out this interactive map for the specific details to help you plan your trip and more articles and photos (zoom out) about the area!