Article updated on December 23, 2024
Text & Photographs: Claire Lessiau & Marcella van Alphen

Next to the world-famous Angkor Wat temple complex, a mind-blowing blend of drama, acrobatics, and modern circus—incorporating live painting and music—tells the dramatic story of the Khmer Rouge regime and the Cambodian genocide. More than a world-class nightly performance, Phare: The Cambodian Circus is the embodiment of an initiative in which arts have been leveraged to heal and empower a traumatised generation of young, talented, and hard-working Cambodians.

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Sokha, an elderly, frail woman slowly walks towards me. Her legs tremble, and her pace in unsteady. Once near, she carefully sits down, opens a thick timeworn book and gently blows the dust away from the pages that has settled on its long-fotgotten cover. Our eyes meet.

I read sadness and sorrow, but above all resilience and determination. Having endured the horrors of Cambodia’s Khmer Rouge era, Sokha has been haunted by war, loss, grief, and nightmares. This strong-spirited woman is about to share her story—a story with a vital message that must be passed on to future generations.

Surrounded by hundreds of spectators inside the circus tent of Phare: The Cambodian Circus in Siem Reap, Sokha opens her heart, and the story begins…

Two young musicians transport us back in time to the carefree days before the Khmer Rouge regime. A lively, fast-paced melody sets the scene as the teenage Sokha enjoys her daily routine—skipping rope with friends, performing playful stunts, and attending school in lighthearted, comedic classroom scenes.

Two young musicians transport us back in time to the carefree days before the Khmer Rouge regime. A cheerful, fast-paced melody sets the scene as the teenage Sokha enjoys her daily routine—skipping rope with friends, performing playful stunts, and attending school lightheartedly.

But the mood shifts abruptly. The joyful music gives way to jarring sounds of thunder and flashes of light, announcing the arrival of the darkest chapter in Cambodia’s history. On stage, the painter begins to darken his vibrant canvas of a serene Buddha in warm colors while Sokha and her friends run for their lifes amidst explosions and chaos.

One brave teenager continues his balancing act, defying fear, until the threatening Red Khmers arrive. Dressed in black uniforms and checkered red scarves, their faces concealed behind menacing masks, they cast a chilling presence. Handcuffed, the youngsters are tortured behind boxes, symbolising the slaughter at the killing fields. The joyful days of Sokha feel like a distant memory as she collapses to the ground, broken and devastated.

Later, having survived the horrors of the Khmer Rouge, Sokha is tormented by recurring nightmares. A Khmer Rouge soldier materializes, and she becomes entangled in a contortionist performance. Her twisting body tells the untold story of her past—a trauma that continues to grip her.

Determined to break free from her haunting past, Sokha is now surrounded by energetic teenagers dressed in bright colours. The mood shifts once more. The music becomes cheerful as the young performers come together, encouraging each other to try new tricks. In the background, the artist is painting a serene landscape, capturing the hopeful transformation of Cambodia as it rapidly develops, symbolizing a future of healing and renewal.

Sokha writes her story, recounting how the Khmer Rouge forever altered her life and how, through art, she found the strength to overcome her past. Now a teacher, she empowers young adults as they navigate their place in the community during Cambodia’s post-civil war recovery. When she is old and frail, her grateful students gently assist her get in sitting, her cherished book still clutched in her hands. As she turns the last page, her last words resonate deeply—a moving message of hope for the future, forgiveness for the past, and profound gratitude for life.

Leaving the audience deeply moved, this breathtaking fusion of drama, live painting, dance, acrobatics, and modern circus techniques, accompanied by live music, is all the more intense as it is based on the true story of the creators of the Phare Ponleu Selpak Circus school in Battambang. The founders, who themselves grew up as refugees under the Khmer Rouge, were healed from their traumas through art. The show is entirely performed by graduates from the NGO circus school. Thanks to this fantastic initiative, Phare: The Cambodian Circus not only provides jobs to many artists but also raises awareness about Cambodia’s history, while funding the school in Battambang thanks to ticket sold to tourists.

Travel tips:

• Attending one of these truly inpiring shows in Siem Reap is an absolute must and will most likely remain one of the highlights of any trip to Cambodia! Please refer to Phare, the Cambodian Circus to order tickets in advance.
• All performers are graduates from the Phare Ponleu Selpak Circus school in Battambang where students perform several times a week. Both shows are high-quality and come highly recommended.
• Donations are accepted to support the organization.
• For more about the Khmer Rouge, please refer to Cambodia’s most horrific history class: The S-21 prison in Phnom Penh and The killing fields, Phnom Penh, Cambodia.
• Check out this interactive map for the specific details to help you plan your trip and more articles and photos (zoom out) about the area!
  

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