Updated December 23, 2024
Text & photographs: Claire Lessiau & Marcella van Alphen

Battambang was once a flourishing city until the horrific Khmer Rouge, led by Pol Pot, dramatically jeopardized the lives of its inhabitants. Many were tragically slaughtered in the infamous killing fields or neighboring killing caves, while others were luckier and fled to nearby Thailand. Those who escaped spent years in refugee camps, enduring harsh conditions. Children grew up traumatized, with little access to proper education.

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In 1986, Véronique Decrop, a French art teacher, volunteered at the Site Two Refugee Camp on the Thai-Cambodian border. She introduced drawing as a therapeutic tool to help traumatized children express themselves. This initiative sparked the creation of Phare Ponleu Selpak (Cambodian for “the brightness of the arts”), a non-profit organization dedicated to improving the lives of Cambodians through arts and education, its highlight being one of the best circus schools in the world.

In 1994, eight of those children had grown into young adults and returned to their hometown of Battambang. Disturbed by the plight of underprivileged children suffering from trauma, poverty, and abuse, they purchased a swampy rice field and built a wooden house where they began offering free drawing classes.

Today, almost a generation later, we stroll through the thriving campus, where the wooden building showcases fine art pieces, including thought-provoking sculptures, intricate charcoal sketches, and vibrant aquarelles, all created by art students. As the bell rings, children in uniforms hurry to their classrooms scattered across the campus. Phare Ponleu Selpak now educates about 1,400 pupils aged four to eighteen, offering both art training and formal schooling to help them achieve high school diplomas.

“Parents who cannot afford schooling can apply, and their children are welcome here,” our guide Megan explains. “We provide lunch for the poorest pupils and offer a library with free access to computers and the internet for the community.” Inside the library, shelves brim with books in multiple languages. A five-year-old boy eagerly flips through a colorful storybook, undisturbed by our presence.

A group of smiling boys dash past us toward a large gymnastics hall. We cannot suppress our enthusiasm, and follow eagerly, excited to watch their practice. “We saw these teenagers perform last night, and they are incredibly talented!” we tell Megan. She smiles, proudly mentioning that some former students are now traveling the world as performers with the groundbreaking Cirque du Soleil. After seeing the quality of the performance ourselves on campus, we are not surprised.

Phare’s circus program combines true passion, talent, and teamwork. Students learn acrobatics, music, drama, aerial ballet, tightrope walking, juggling… Above all, they learn strong work ethics shaped by hard work and dedication. The most talented students perform evening shows for locals and tourists in Battambang, with ticket sales helping fund the school. For some, this experience paves the way to careers at Phare: the Cambodian circus in Siem Reap or even Cirque du Soleil.

Highly skilled teachers in choreography, music, and the arts guide students toward careers that match their talents. While Battambang is off-the-beaten path for many tourists, Angkor Wat remains Cambodia’s must-visit site. Siem Reap, the gateway to Angkor Wat, is not only a hub for exploring the world-famous ancient temples but also home to Phare: The Cambodian Circus tent, where many graduates launch their performing careers in front of an international audience. Phare Ponleu Selpak fosters pride in Cambodia’s cultural roots while showcasing its vibrancy to the world.

As we leave the Phare Ponleu Selpak campus, we reflect on the lesson of resilience and creativity we witnessed. Phare Ponleu Selpak is a living example of how creative expression—through movement, performance, and arts—can help individuals process trauma, reclaim their stories, and build confidence.

The performances we attended was not just displays of talent but the proof of the strength and hope arts can foster, and also only an introduction for us as our next stop in Siem Reap is sure to include a performance of Phare: The Cambodian Circus!

Travel tips:

• Attending a show on the Campus is a valid reason to come to Battambang! Please refer to Phare Ponleu Selpak to order tickets.
• A campus visit is also very interesting and comes highly recommended.
• Donations are accepted to support the organization.
• Check out this interactive map for the specific details to help you plan your trip (zoom out: the black pins lead to an article) about the area!
  

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