Updated July 27, 2025
Text & photographs: Claire Lessiau & Marcella van Alphen

I am contemplating the serene smile on the 2.5-metre-wide delicate face of the golden reclining Buddha. I try to step back in the finely decorated chapel to take it all in. The whole figure is 46 meters (150 ft) in length and 15 meters (49 ft) in height. It is one of the largest Buddhas of Thailand, here in Wat Pho, the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, in the heart of Bangkok and it is truly majestic.

 

The size of the brick and plaster sculpture all covered in gold is impressive and contrasts with the simplicity of His facial expression when entering into Nirvana at the end of all His reincarnations. It is silent, but for the noise of coins dropping. While I go around the soles of His 5-by-3-metre (16ft by 9ft) feet delicately inlaid with mother-of-pearl, I see the 108 alms bowls aligned along His back. They represent the 108 good characters of Buddha. Worshipers drop a coin in each one of these bronze bowls, most of them handmade in the Ban Baht village in the heart of Bangkok, for good fortune.

If this gigantic reclining Buddha is the highlight of any visit to Wat Pho, I wander the temple grounds. My attention is drawn towards the chanting of monks. Bare feet, I enter the most sacred temple where the humming sounds are coming from, and I sit by the monks for the evening prayer. Seated in an awkward position to make sure that my soles are not pointing towards the central Buddha nor the monks, I notice my limbs getting numb.

 

Ironically, this very spot is the birthplace of Thai massage which is still taught and practiced on the temple grounds. In awe, I look at the monks of all ages who seem to be at ease in this position, and realize the benefits of years of practice and meditation. It is time for me to move on, leaving the beautifully lit temple behind me as dusk falls on Wat Pho.

Travel tips:

• Wat Pho is the house of the largest collection of Buddha images in the country. 
• Wat Pho has been recognized as a UNESCO world heritage site for its illustrations and inscriptions.
• Check out this interactive map for the specific details to help you plan your trip and more articles and photos (zoom out) about the area!

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