Text: Claire Lessiau
Photographs: Claire Lessiau & Marcella van Alphen

The cradle of the Andean civilization, Lake Titicaca is the largest lake in South America and one of the highest navigable lakes in the world. Beyond the natural beauty of its deep blue waters and serene surroundings, it stands as a symbol of well-anchored traditions. If many of these have turned into a show for mass tourism, it is still possible to experience Lake Titicaca in a rather authentic way…

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A legendary lake, the cradle of civilizations & the Inca Empire

Formed during the pre-Ice Age 60 million years ago, Lake Titicaca has been inhabited for thousands of years. Along its shores, legend and reality intertwine, and ancient civilizations still resonate across its waters with temples dotting the Altiplano landscape.

From the Puraka culture’s settlement in its fertile lands to the emergence of the Tiwanaku civilization, the lake bore witness to the rise and fall of mighty empires.

According to the legend, the Island of the Sun, on the Bolivian side of the lake, is the cradle of the Inca civilization: this is where the first Inca Manco Capac and his sister wife Mama Ocllo emerged from the depths of Lake Titicaca on the sacred rock on Isla Del Sol to look for a place to build their realm. From this region, they started the journey that led them to Cuzco that they chose as the capital of the Inca Empire.

A lake in superlatives

The largest in South America by both volume (a staggering 896 km³ or 215 cubic miles) and surface area (spanning 8,372 km² or 3,232 square miles for a rough 180 km (112 miles) by 60 km (37 miles)), Lake Titicaca is often dubbed as world’s highest navigable lake.

At an altitude of 3,812 meters (12,507 feet), it is actually the highest navigable lake in the world for commercial vessels.

Beyond its impressive statistics, it is its manufactured landscapes including its unique floating islands made of reeds and ancestral traditions that have been captivating travelers for centuries.

Ingenious floating architecture

Venturing beyond the 1,125km-long (699 miles) shores of Lake Titicaca unveils a marvel of human ingenuity: the Uros Islands, or the floating islands. Crafted from the totora reeds growing in the shallow waters of the lake, these islands were initially a sanctuary for the Uros people who could not secure a land amongst competing tribes, and later remained sheltered from the Inca taxation.

Initially living on balsa de totora, or boats made of totora reeds, they settled centuries ago by anchoring their man-made islands amidst the shimmering waters. Guided by ancient wisdom, the people of Uros have fashioned these islands, block by block, regularly layering reeds upon reeds to maintain the buoyancy of the platform on which reed houses stand. To this day, the watchtower is a reminder of the defensive purpose of the Uros Islands.

If modernity has led many of these families to settle in Puno, and to commute to the nearby archipelago of about 100 floating islands to entertain and sell handicrafts to tourists, about 100 Uros people have maintained their traditional way of living, made more comfortable by modern technologies such as solar panels and engines for their boats. The balsa remains a symbol of their tradition, and tourism and crafts greatly supplement the traditional fishing and hunting.

Authentic islands such as Uros Titino are inhabited by an extended family. In such a microcosm, unsolvable conflicts are resolved quite drastically: as it is easy to enlarge the island to make room for an extra house for new members, it is maybe even easier to simply saw away a part of the island, no strings attached…

Manufactured landscapes

From the floating islands of the Uros people to the terraced hillsides of the Andean villages, the inhabitants of the majestic shoreline of Lake Titicaca are a living symbol of resilience, tradition, and ingenuity.

These traits are enforced by a strong sense of community collectivism, led by the respected moral code “do not steal, do not lie, do not be lazy”.

Clearly, laziness is not an option given the arid climate of the area that has made it a real challenge to grow crops on the islands of the lake, such as Amantani and Taquile or along its banks. The terraced hillsides planted with wheat, potatoes, and vegetables are often a collective effort, such as the building of houses.

In all the villages, this strong sense of community and heavy reliance on agriculture is epitomized during vibrant cultural festivals where Pachamama, the feeding Earth is honored. Traditions have modernized, the offerings to Pachamama being splashes of Coca Cola thrown to the ground, yet traditional garments, giving an indication about the marital status and origin rule.

Reflecting traditions through attire

Along the banks of Lake Titicaca, attire serves as a reflection of identity and status. Here, clothing also marks cultural ties and significant life milestones.

From the tender age of two to the pivotal moment of engagement, and eventually to the settled life with children, the women of Lake Titicaca adorn themselves in garments that symbolize their marital journey. Like a new layer of responsibilities, the black jacket is worn by mothers.

Mixtures of colors and designs are fairly common on Peruvian attires. Yet, the traditional yearly hat worn by women is very specific and hard to decipher for the neophyte: Ruben Mamani, owner of the local homestay La Casa de Ruben on the rural and authentic Llachon Peninsula, carefully details the deep meaning of each thread with respect. Every year, a specific hat is carefully designed by the shaman detailing his symbolic vision of the year to come, and between duty and symbol of status, local women wear the hat with pride. The main focus is agriculture and the droughts of 2022 and 2023 that costed 1.4 meters of water level to the lake are clearly marked on the colorful hats, as well as the COVID-19 pandemic.

Diving into spiritual depths

As the Inca added the Titicaca region to their realm, it was also connected to Cusco via the Inca Trail. It actually passes very close to Ruben’s house on the Llachon Peninsula. The trail elevates itself amongst terraced fields, leading to a stunning viewpoint on Amantani Island and the shores of the lake. A temple stands, the temple Ruben describes with great respect.

The temple has remained a spiritual sanctuary for the local inhabitants. There, ancient beliefs are worshipped, shrouded in supernatural and mystique. Within its walls, shamans carry the responsibility of spiritual leadership, and a specific shaman is the guardian of agriculture, a critical aspect of life around Lake Titicaca. The temple breathes life into their souls, endowing them with strength and wisdom to guide their followers.

Sustaining tradition in a changing world

As the waters of Lake Titicaca flow, so does the rhythm of life for its inhabitants. Amidst the challenges of modernity, environmental changes may be the greatest constraints they face. Lake Titicaca where evapotranspiration is heightened by strong winds and intense sunlight at the high altitude of the lake is subject to shortened rainy seasons and the melting of glaciers feeding it, threatening its ecological equilibrium.

Receding water levels since the turn of the century have been a real concern. Ruben’s face is grave when he points at the water level along the shore down his family home, followed by his loyal alpaca, Inti. The cumulated droughts have led to a significant loss of the water level over the whole surface of the largest lake in South America. This year, with El Niño, droughts are expected in the region and Ruben is very concerned. It is critical to plant the crops at the appropriate moment, right before the rains, but the rains are uncertain and unpredictable, and Ruben, as many of the inhabitants around Lake Titicaca cannot afford another bad harvest after two years of nothingness.

Fishing is always an option, but the growing of the city of Puno and the contamination of the waters of the lake by heavy metals such as cadmium, arsenic, and lead pose a grave threat to the lake’s biodiversity, endangering its 530 species of aquatic life, 90% of which are endemic. Yet, the introduced species such as tilapia and rainbow trout, make it easier for fishermen, but maybe not for endemic species that are also unbalanced by the new comers…

***

As we are looking at the sky turning red as the sun sets behind the Andean Mountains of the Altiplano, tainting the surface of Lake Titicaca in orange hues, we are reflecting on the past few days, sharing a homestay with Ruben’s family. Lake Titicaca is far more than a body of water described by superlatives. It is a symbol of the enduring bond between humanity and nature, where human resilience adapted to the harsh environment sustainably for millennia.

Ensuring the preservation of the fragile ecosystem and of its invaluable cultural heritage for generations to come through sustainable practices and cultural exchange is today’s challenge for Lake Titicaca to remain a source of life for its inhabitants and inspirational for all who are fortunate enough to experience its magnificence.

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Travel tips:

• For a simple yet authentic homestay, La Casa de Ruben on Llachon Peninsula is ideal: a short boat ride from Uros Titino and Amantani Island, it is ideally located away from the crowds visiting Puno, and Ruben and his family are passionate about sharing their traditions. The best way to book is by WhatsApp: +51 986 125 235, preferably in Spanish.
• Check out this interactive map (quick tutorial) for the specific details to help you plan your trip and more articles (zoom out) about the area!