Updated January 10, 2024
Text: Marcella van Alphen
Photographs: Marcella van Alphen & Claire Lessiau

As an avid summer hiker in Sweden, I have roamed through the picturesque landscapes of various provinces, never struggling to find a cozy spot to set up camp thanks to the Allmansrättan, a unique right allowing outdoor enthusiasts to responsibly enjoy nature, including camping in the wild (as long as reasonably away from a private land). Whether it is pitching a tent along scenic hiking trails, opting for the comfort of local bed & breakfasts or rustic stugas (small wooden cabins), the options seem endless. However, planning for stuga stays along the High Coast trail (Höga Kusten Leden) in advance can be a challenge due to limited information about their locations, sleeping arrangements, and amenities. To assist fellow hikers, we compiled details about the various stugas along the trail and mapped them. We are focusing on the trail’s most captivating sections and the not-to-be-missed stuga cabins with their respective locations (see detailed table below).

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Embarking on an exciting spring journey, just before the hiking season officially starts, we are on the brink of discovering the marvels of the Swedish High Coast (Höga Kusten) UNESCO World Heritage Site, sculpted by the last Ice Age. The gradual thawing of the three-kilometer-thick ice cap has relieved pressure on the once-burdened terrain, propelling the land upwards by an impressive 286 meters above sea level over millennia, with an ongoing annual rise of 8 millimeters. A haven for hiking enthusiasts, this spectacular terrain of canyons, caves, and stone fields unfolds along the 129-kilometer High Coast Trail along the Gulf of Bothnia, a six-hour drive north of Stockholm.

Approaching the High Coast via the E4, the striking High Coast Bridge captivates with its island views. The trail leads to a cabin at the southernmost point of the Höga Kusten Leden. After an exhilarating ascent featuring ropes and stairs, one reaches the Valkallen stuga, a charming cabin atop the Valkallen rocks. Offering a cozy setting and a breathtaking 360° panorama on lakes and the Baltic Sea, the cabin provides a private retreat during the off-season, allowing its guests to take in a stunning sunset in solitude, and maybe hear the mating call of the endangered black grouse that nests on the surrounding open ground.

The next day’s journey passes by the the Fjärdboten stuga complex, home to six simple sleeping cabins. A summer haven, the site offers the chance to bathe in the lake, albeit with the playful presence of beavers leaving their intriguing traces along the trail. Pushing further, efforts are greatly rewarded as the path leads to a mountain plateau with breathtaking views and the charming Nipstugan cottage. As in all stugas, the cast iron stove allows its visitors to stay warm. As a rest stuga, it is not equipped with beds but a few benches and chairs and provides a cozy shelter.

The captivating ascent to the Erikskojan stuga a bit further north unfolds along a narrow winding path amidst pine forests adorned with lush green moss. The higher elevation reveals a rocky terrain, leading to a vantage point on the left of the hut, where we get a glimpse of moose leisurely feasting on young trees at sunset.

Venturing further beyond the city Ullånger, the Askjaberget stuga boasts a magnificent panorama of the city and lake from its expansive terrace, particularly enchanting at sunset. Drenched from the elements, this stuga provides the warmth we crave by the stove. After spending the night, we chopped some wood to replenish the stock and put everything back in place: the stugas are based on a respectful approach where users leave them as they found them, or sometimes add a cozy touch, a candle, or a warm note in the ever-present guestbook.

The High Coast trail also traverses the picturesque Skuleskogen National Park with its Norrsvedge-bodarna stuga by the serene Skrattabborrtjärnen lake and the awe-inspiring, narrow Slåttdalsskrevan Crack. The journey leads to the smaller Tärnätvattnen stuga, embraced by the tranquil reflections of the sunset on its lake, its waters serene and cold.

Exploring the park further beyond the Näskebodarna stugas and briskly walking in the rain for another twenty minutes, we settle into the renovated Tärnättholmarna stuga. With its small stove and double-glazed windows, it proves to be a comfortable and warm retreat, offering scenic views of the sea with sterns hunting for fish.

Returning to the mainland, the Tärnättsundet stuga, a spacious and well-located spot is well-worth a stay thanks to its peaceful setting along the lake. After hiking all the southern part of the park, we head north to spend our last night at the Lillruten stuga. Attempting to dry our shoes, boil water and warm up after the most refreshing shower in the nearby stream, we face challenges with the uncooperative stove. This last night turns out to be the coldest and the dampest night of our adventure, as the outside thermometer indicates only a small degree above freezing at sunrise!

This journey along the High Coast trail in Sweden does not seem complete without experiencing the cozy shelter of these well-maintained stugas. From awakening to the first rays of sunlight accompanied by the harmonious songs of birds to enjoying sunsets from breathtaking viewpoints within the UNESCO World Heritage site and embracing the simplicity of building fires and washing in streams or lakes make one reconnect with nature. The High Coast Trail not only captivates with its natural wonders but also invites the adventurous nature enthusiasts to experience the rustic yet welcoming accommodation of the Swedes along this extraordinary Scandinavian trek.

Notes:

• Please, help us keep this information up-to-date! If you visit these stugas and if the situation has changed, let us know or leave a comment and we will update the article. Thanks!
  

Travel tips:

• Two terms are used to describe the cabins for hikers in Sweden: stuga or rastuga. Most of the time, the raststuga is meant to take a short break during the day, when a stuga is more equipped and allows to spend a night.
• We found every stuga or rastuga supplied with firewood to operate its fireplace or stove, and dry toilets, pick-nick tables or seating areas and fire pits outside.
• We hiked the High Coast trail in May, and haven’t had any issues finding an available stuga. This may be a whole different story in the summer and the stugas operate on a first come, first serve basis!
• Finding hotels or bed & breakfasts in this area in early May is hardly possible as the season has not started yet.
• Below is the map of the stugas, including GPS coordinates and pictures. Refer to this short tutorial to download this map for free on your smartphone and use it without any roaming fees!

For more awesome multiday hiking adventures, click on one of these images: